Quilts Up Close …

By Kathy Kansier

Note: The following are articles that I have written for quilt-related magazines.

Working with Wool

     As winter approaches, we often think of hot chocolate, cozy fires and warm quilts to snuggle under.  During the past few years, I have enjoyed making flannel and wool appliqué quilts.  They just seem to be the right thing to be making when the temperatures drop. 

     A good friend of mine recently brought a wool hooked rug to one of my classes.  It was stunning – complete with floral designs similar to the 19^th century appliqué quilts.  I was instantly convinced that I needed another hobby in my life so I became “a hooker.”  I now have baskets full of ¼” strips of wool, dye pots simmering on the stove and patterns drawn on “monk’s cloth” for future rugs.  I had no problem creating “the primitive look” with my first rug.  An experienced hooker told me it really looked good on the back (and probably thought I should display it upside down).  I don’t think that she was impressed with my hooking – it actually looked like high/low carpeting! 

     The history of rug making in America parallels the history of quilt making.  Wool is a fiber made from animal fleece.  It is spun into yarn and used for knitting or the yarns can be woven into cloth.  It can also be used as a quilt batting.  The lanolin in the fibers makes the quilting needle glide, creating fine stitches.  Wool accepts and holds dyes better than cotton or linen and is much more durable.  Fine wool was imported from England while primitive wool was spun, dyed and woven in colonial homes.  These wools were used in both quilts and rugs.  Late 18^th century “ruggs” were used to decorate furniture and beds rather than the floor. 

     “Calimanco” was a glazed, satin-weave wool used for 19^th century quilts.  “Linsey-woolsey” quilts were Colonial whole cloth quilts made from fine, imported wool.  While wool quilts were never as popular as cotton quilts, wool pieced and tied quilts were made after the Civil War.  Amish quilts dated 1880 - 1940 were often made of lightweight wool.  Because of the abundance of inexpensive wool scraps from suit factories, tied wool comforters and wool crazy quilts (embellished with yarn or pearl cotton) were made by American quilt makers from 1890 to 1920.  Batting was not needed for these wool quilts because of their warmth and weight.  Primitive appliqué designs were attached using a blanket stitch.  “Tongues” were inserted along the edges to create a decorative, scalloped edge. 

     Today, quilt makers are appliquéing wool to flannel quilts, wall hangings and table runners.  It has become a popular folk art style.  Simple, raw-edge appliqué designs are attached using a blanket, feather or running stitch.  Because wool doesn’t ravel like cotton, the stitches adequately secure the raw edges.  Black pearl cotton is most often used for the embroidery stitches; however colored threads can add variety. Shapes can be layered to create interest.  Wool appliqué books and patterns are available and many quilt shops are now carrying wool.  New wool averages $15 to $20 per yard.  Wool suits, coats, skirts and blankets can be purchased at thrift stores and garage sales.  It takes time to take the garments apart but you can recycle some great tweeds, plaids and checks at a reduced cost.  You may also find some great buttons to use.  When buying garments or wool by the yard, make sure you are purchasing 100% wool.  It appliqués nicely, felts the best and will accept dyes.  To test a fiber, 100% wool will smell like burning hair and reduce to a fine ash when lit with a match.  To create a tight weave and felted look, wool can be washed in warm water and dried in a medium to hot heat.

     You can create great colors by over-dying wool.  Wool dyes can be purchased on the Internet.  They are inexpensive and create vibrant colors.  There are dye recipes available for mixing dyes to create a multitude of colors.  You never know the exact color you will get when over-dying because each wool fabric and color accepts dye colors differently.  It is as fun as coloring Easter eggs.  The wool needs to be pre-soaked in water with a few drops of clear dish soap to open the fibers.  Enamel pots are used, plain salt is added to the simmering water and white vinegar is added during the last 20 minutes to set the dye.  The fabric should be thoroughly rinsed to remove excess dye.  Pots and utensils used for chemical dying should not be used for cooking. 

     Natural dyes such as walnut hulls or marigolds can also be used on wool.  I recently learned to dye white wool using onion skins to create a rich, rust and ivory hand-dyed look.  Unfortunately, the produce manager at Walmart thought I was loosing my mind as I was bagging up onion skins from his onion bin.  I explained that I was a hooker so instead of calling security, he just smiled and walked away shaking his head.  The onion skins weighed in at 3¢ at the checkout.

     I’m hoping to have sparked your interest to try a wool project this winter.  It is soft and easy to work with and the simple, primitive results are pleasing.  Many of your appliqué patterns can be simplified into patterns for wool.  Coloring books can also provide primitive designs.  One final word of advice … do not cut up your husband’s good Pendleton Wool shirts for a project.  He may not be pleased with you on a cold winter morning!

Choosing Colors & Fabrics

     Last year I challenged myself to make quilts with colors and fabrics that I tended to shy away from.  I decided early on in the year it was time to “be creative and expand my horizons.”  I didn’t think this would be a problem.  I soon discovered this was no easy task!  I found that I had some deeply ingrained ideas about color and fabric – ideas that are hard to change.  Let me take you back a few years to understand my problem.

     I grew up during the 1950s – a time when everyone wanted to be cool like the Fonz on Happy Days.  My two older brothers were in high school with fashion-conscious girlfriends.  I wanted to be just like them.  I was often referred to as “four going on sixteen.”  Each morning, as my mother picked out clothes for me to wear, I was taught the basic rules of color, fabrics, and fashion.  I’m sure you learned similar rules.  I listened intently so I too could be fashionable and “cool.”  It is amazing I can remember all those rules.  Here are just a few ...

·        Never wear white shoes before Easter or after Labor Day.

·        Hats and white gloves are a must for Easter & weddings.

·        Be careful with the way stripes go – they can make you look fat.

·        Gingham with rickrack makes a nice apron. 

·        Silks & velvets are for prom & piano recitals.

·        Don’t put polka dots with plaids.

·        School colors are for football games.

·        Be modest –you certainly don’t want to be too “gaudy.”

·        Certain colors are only for holidays (red & green for Christmas, orange & brown for Thanksgiving).

·        Red, white, & blue are patriotic and can be worn on the 4^th of July to the parade & family picnic.

·        Black is for funerals – white is for brides that have been “good girls.”

·        Wools are for winter, chenille for bedspreads, seersucker for summer pajamas, & flannel for winter ones.

·        Pink is for baby girls, blue for baby boys but they can both wear yellow and mint green.

·        Pink & purple don’t go together – red & purple don’t either.  Kings & queens always wear purple.

·        Remember, the sky is blue and goes with everything.  Blue can be worn year round.  It is a good color.

     One of the crowning days of my life was when I was about 4 ½ years old.  On that day, my mother announced at breakfast that I was now old enough and ready to pick out my own clothes.  I ran to my closet, flung open the door and stood in panic.  What if I picked the wrong colors or fabrics?  If I didn’t pass this “test” I’d probably never get to wear a bra or nylons!  The pressure was on but then I remembered – blue is a good color.  I reached for my blue dress, put it on, and walked proudly to the kitchen.  Everyone clapped – I had passed my fashion test with “flying colors.” 

     I have been reaching for blue ever since that fateful day.  I wear it, I have decorated my house with it, the majority of the fabric I own is blue, and most of my quilts are blue.  When I walk into a quilt shop to pick out fabrics, it’s like flinging my closet door open all over again.  I often panic and take down every bolt of fabric.  I drive the clerks crazy with “what do you think” questions.  As they suggest various colors, I always think they are trying to sell me a bolt of fabric they’ve been stuck with for months.  For safety, I ignore their advice and reach for my old standby – blue.  I know that when I’m old, I’m supposed to wear purple.  At the rate I’ve been going, I don’t think that is going to happen!  I need some radical changes in my color and fabric rules.  Actually, I need to really get radical and have absolutely no rules! 

     I want you to think about the “rules” you live by in your color and fabric choices.  Are they helping you or limiting the creativity in your quilts?  The next time you walk in a quilt shop – force yourself to expand your color and fabric horizons.  You might just become creative and when you’re old – you might just wear purple!

I Love to Shop!

          I teach at a local quilt shop in Springfield, Missouri.  When I was first asked to teach at the shop, my husband’s response was, “What is this going to cost?”  He totally understands me and my love of quilt making.  Each time I walk in the shop to teach a class, I see a new of fabric, a pattern or a book that I want to buy.  I love going to “work” but I seldom walk out of the store without purchasing something.  All of the clerks at the store understand this passion.  We seldom see a full paycheck because we all tend to “work for fabric.”   In the past few years, I have also discovered other stores that are great for my quilt making “addiction.”  Here are some ideas to broaden your horizons and passion to shop. 

Scrap Book Stores:  Quilt makers are discovering all sorts of tools and ideas at these stores.  “Die-cut” shapes can be purchased for as little as 25 cents.  They are perfect for appliqué shapes and designs.  Rulers with fancy edges make great Victorian edges for quilts.  Scrap book magazines provide inspirations for appliqué and folk art designs.  Letters in all sorts of shapes and sizes are available for tracing.  Stickers or single sheets of paper with fancy borders work well for designing a quilt label, reducing it in size and photocopying it to photo transfer paper.  Rubber stamps, fabric inks, calligraphy pens and permanent pens are also available.  Cute paper frames on photos provide ideas for framing quilt blocks.

Office Supply Stores:   I like to visit these stores and go to the area that contains design and architectural tools.  I’ve found inexpensive templates for circles, ovals and lettering.  Flexible rulers work well for designing floral stems.  Paper glue sticks can be purchased in bulk packages.  These can be used to temporarily hold a piece of fabric in place.

Home Improvement Stores:  My husband is a carpenter so I often shop with him at these stores.  While he orders lumber and supplies, I wander the aisles.  A retractable metal ruler is a must for quilt makers for measuring quilts.  An empty chalk line holder can be purchased for under $5.  I’ve filled this with white chalk and can now snap long quilting grid lines on a quilt.  Insulated foam boards can be purchased for a sewing room design wall.  T-squares and L-squares are great for measuring and cutting perfect corners.  Levels help to check straight lines in a quilt’s border.  Paint color chips help for learning coordinating colors and color values.  Plastic and metal washers can be used for appliqué circles.  Wallpaper books are filled with floral designs that can be simplified into appliqué patterns.  Peg board is available in 4 x 4 and 4 x 8 sheets for hanging sewing tools.  Tiny drills can be used to make holes for sewing embellishments.

Grocery Stores:  Freezer paper – a must for designing borders, appliqué shapes and patterns.  Jell-O, Kool-Aid, food coloring, coffee and tea are all great for fabric dyes.  Bleach and dishwashing soap are good for discharge dyeing of fabric.  Zip-lock bags and small plastic containers are a must for organizing.  A ball of kitchen string is great for making piping or for measuring irregular shapes and edges.  

Art Supply Stores:  These stores are filled with items to get you in an artistic and creative mood.  Colored pencils can be used for designing and choosing colors.  Brushes and fabric paints can be used for stenciling on fabric.  Color wheels and books on color, composition, perspective and focal points are available to help boost your design capabilities.   

Hunting & Fishing Stores:  Head for the fly fishing section and you will find all sorts of neat metallic threads, feathers and embellishments.  Wildlife displays provide ideas for fall quilts.  Purchase your husband a store gift certificate so he won’t complain about your next fabric purchase. 

Stained Glass Hobby Stores:  This is the best place to find stained glass patterns for quilt making.  They have every pattern you can imagine – angels, birds, church windows, Frank Lloyd Wright designs – you name it, they’ve got it. 

Flower Shops & Greenhouses:  These are great places to get inspired to make a floral appliqué pattern.  Bring your camera and ask permission to take photos of their flowers and arrangements.  You will learn lots about color and design.  Purchase silk flowers for leaf and petal shapes.  Purchase real flowers for “flower pounding” on fabric.

Kitchen & Home Organizing Stores:  Is it time to organize your sewing room?  These stores have every container you can imagine.  Plastic shoe boxes are good for organizing notions and small projects.  Larger boxes can be used to store fabrics – one for each color.  Small glass tubes with caps are good for holding beads and buttons.   

Pizza Parlors:  Tired of shopping?  Meet your friends for lunch.  Ask the manager if you can purchase large, unused pizza boxes.  They hold 14” blocks perfectly.  Label each one along the edge to identify your UFO’s.